Computer - Cappuccino SlimPro-300

This small Pentium III based PC has the important features: USB,
FireWire, Serial, and 2 IDE ports. Chosen for its size, I
populated it with a PIII 1.0 Ghz, 256MB ram, 60GB 2.5" HD, PS/2 ports
for mouse and keyboard, and 1GB Compact Flash. Video is
through the Intel 855 chipset and audio was inconsequential, as it does
not provide Dolby Digital. I was able to rewire the power and
reset switches as well as tap into another serial port and provide
regulated low voltage power for the GPS all from this unit.
This was bought from
Cappuccino PC.
Admittedly, this final platform took some work. I fabricated
a mounting fixture for the compact flash/IDE adapter,
and tapped holes in the side of the PC to allow for car mounting (see
installation page). The rewire for the serial port took some inference
and meter work, and configuration of the BIOS for booting the CF was
not the most straight forward.

Most important is the Compact Flash adapter requiring a 44 pin IDE
cable which swaps all the lines. This makes it possible to
work with the IDE interface in the SlimPro. Looking at the
pins, one can see why this is necessary. Oh, and not all CF
cards are not
created equally. The Sandisk Ultimate II card, which has the
correct IDE chipset allowing it to boot a PC. I bought this
adapter from from
ACS,
which is the best place in my opinion to get one. Those guys
really know what they are doing.
Is the video fast enough? Yes. Is the system fast
enough? Yes. With the right OS, this system can rip dvds,
playback vobs from the HD, navigate with GPS and provide Dolby Digital
Output simultaneously. Is that fast enough? I
finally upgraded to 512 MB ram, but it didn't seem
to make much of a difference.
Power must be supplied +/- 5%, so direct battery hookup is not
possible. This drove the requirement for the power supply
listed below.
Keyboard and mouse
Um, yeah. Eventually this became necessary. I chose
to use an IBM RF wireless keyboard and mouse/joy combination.
However, since the unit runs with a touchscreen, I leave the
keyboard at home, and am 100% happy without it. The
transmitter stays in the car, but hte actual keyboard stays in the
garage.
DVD - Panasonic CW-8124

A combination DVD-ROM CD-RW which provides the needed media playback.
This particual drive is slot loading (which is what I think
is required in a car), and is of course a slim model for a laptop.
I luckily fell onto the drive chassis shown, which
beyond my expectations provides USB2.0 and IEEE1394, both bus powered,
and is very
close the dimensions of the drive. Ideally, this would have
been a DIN mount system, but this works well too. Both the
drive and chassis are great solutions and provide a great portable fast
DVD/CD. The chassis and drive are permanently mounted in the
vehicle. I bought these both from
mp3car.com.
Display - DWW-700H

A
touchscreen is a must for car computing. No keyboard or mouse
were acceptable, as they provide too much distraction. This
particular 7" unit flips down and pushes into the dash, is non
motorized, and is single DIN mounted. It was purchased from
digitalww.
I wish I could offer advice on the selection of a screen or
touchscreen. The DWW-700H is very clear, and the USB
touchscreen is extremely reliable at all temperatures (at least for
me). This, however, was not my first screen. I
tried a liliput 8", and could not get the touchscreen to maintain
calibration. This was not a problem with the DWW-700H.
Uses VGA for video, or can use composite input. USB
powers the touchscreen, so it can be used, even when the screen is off
(this seems somewhat standard).
There are problems with this unit though. 1. No auto on
feature. 2. Takes a long time to turn on (5 seconds after
power, plus 5 seconds after button is pressed). 3. Screen
stopped working for no reason, and required taking it apart.
Luckily, while probing the microcontroller, I realized the
chip socket was flaky, and stretched the pins. Since, it has
not been a problem. I decided to power this from the power
supply listed below, since I can cut power when I want.
Power Supply - Carnetix CNX-1260

A
power supply is
required for anything in the car. Why? Because the
battery voltage in a car can be anywhere from 11 to 14 volts, and the
computer cannot take this. Basically, this unit is a DC/DC
converter with off timer and control inputs. This 60 watt
model powers the computer and display directly, and indirectly the GPS,
DVD chassis, and USB Sound card.
I connected this unit to a custom harness I made, and a set of switches
to turn on/off the power supply. Power input is wired
directly to the car battery through a 6 amp fuse. For
installation or buy one yourself, go to
mp3car.com.
Power Interface
This is a custom made device with IR input and switches to control the
power supply and PC. Pictures and better description to come.
GPS - GlobalSat BR-355

Choosing
the right GPS is important. Acquisition time, accuracy, and
interface are primary concerns. I chose this unit for price,
accuracy, and its serial interface option. It also happens to
have some of the fastest acquisition times I've experienced in a GPS.
It also features a magnetic base, and separate power
connection allowing for flexible in-dash mounting and powering.
I
bought this from
BuyGPSNow.
Sound - Soundblaster Live/!24 bit USB

Cheap
and provides dolby digital. In fact, the most important
features were USB, Dolby Digital, and SPDIF. Why SPDIF?
Becuase the industry standard for dolby digital, even in
mobile applications, is SPDIF. The SPDIF on this soundcard is
great since it is optical, and does not incure the ground loop hum many
people experience with their setups.
Until you try it, you will not realize how hard dolby digital (5.1)
sound is in an automobile. DVD head units do not have SPDIF
inputs nor do they accept
AC3
audio. In any installation, a DSP is required to decode the
AC3 audio compressed format. I bought the automotive DSP from
Alpine.
This soundcard is available from most hardware vendors.
DSP - Alpine PXA-H510

This was an Ebay
purchase, and is an incredible find. Dolby Digital Optical
SPDIF as well as line level inputs from another source. This
unit even switches between inputs automatically, and sets the optical
SPDIF as a priority over all the other inputs.
As a bonus, this unit allows for each speaker to be configured with an
equalizer. Incredibly, it also provides a phanton center
channel, eliminating the need for another speaker (which I didn't know
how I would mount).
Manuals for this unit are
here,
and
here.
Power comes form the car battery and the small control panel
shown in the picture is on a 6 foot cable. To be honest, this
thing is awesome, and only cost about $200. It may have made
the difference in this whole installation, as the sound is clear and
clean, and well balanced. An amplifier is required to power
the speakers.
Amplifier - Hifonics Zeus ZX8000

5 channels, 4 x 50 watt + 1 x 200 watt. I wired it in a
standard single output configuration, one out to each speaker and a
subwoofer. Input is through a dedicated 30 amp circuit direct
to the battery. This amp was cheap at $200, and prrovides
outputs for each of the dolby digital speakers.
Best yet was
the low Total Harmonic Distortion ( < 0.05%), which in my
opinion is best for Dolby Digital Audio. This amp was
purchased new from the web.
SubWoofer - Pioneer TS-W250R
I bought a simple 10" subwoofer and box from Best Buy. Easy
installation, nothing too customized here, but provided the well needed
bass missing form the sound.
Head Unit
I bought a simple head unit from JVC. Crutchfield purchase to
provide radio and CD when not using the computer. Most
important, it has line pre-outs which were compatible with the line
inputs of the DSP.
Wire
One word: Radioshack. Go there, get wire, be happy.
I actually ordered connectors for my custom harnesses from
digikey, but all the wire came from RadioShack. I used 10
guage for all the speakers and the least expensive RCA phono cables
from the shack. Optical cable also came from the shack,
cheapest place I could find.